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OLD SAYBROOK, Conn. — A view of the Connecticut River to my left. An iconic lighthouse and Long Island Sound straight ahead. Just behind are historic homes and the site of an old fort dating to the earliest days of the settlement that emerged here in the 17th century.

It is the first leg of an exploration of the Connecticut River Valley by bicycle, sampling three sections of a river so rich in history, so varied in its landscapes that it captures the essence of all New England in one 410-mile-long body of water.

Near the mountainous Canadian border, the valley is rugged, much of it forested in spruce and fir, the river small and intimate, the people few, the moose abundant, the cell service nonexistent.

In the central lowlands, 200 river miles from the sea, forest gives way to undulating farmland with Vermont's Green Mountains rising to the west and New Hampshire's White Mountains rising to the east.

In the communities at the mouth of the river, the hills are modest and the river is a mile wide and tidal. Massive marshes on each shore greet the sea and yield to quintessential coastal New England.

The handy thing about rivers is that most of them, including the Connecticut, have been within their flood plains for centuries, creating riverside terraces with gentle slopes where the first roads were cut. For bicyclists, that is friendly terrain.

Even in the more northerly sections of the valley, travel by bicycle is comfortable if you stick to roads near the river. Reasonably fit adults and teens should have no trouble pedaling a 20- or 30-mile route almost anywhere in the valley.

I began with a loop in Old Saybrook, using Connecticut Route 154 as the backbone of an outing of about 21 miles. I began on Main Street, where there are shops galore, including coffeehouses and multiple restaurant choices. Pedaling south toward the Sound, I came to Fort Saybrook Monument Park, nearly 18 acres, much of it marsh. You'll see a monument to Lion Gardiner, who built and commanded the fort. Interpretive signs explain the area's ecology and history. Worth a stop.

I picked up Route 154 nearby and continued along the coast with almost constant views of Long Island Sound, happening upon a public beach as I went.

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I continued on Route 154 north and followed the signs for Essex village, where again there are beaucoup shops and restaurants. At the foot of Main Street is the Connecticut River Museum, housed in a 19th century clapboard warehouse beside a wharf that was the site of a British raid in the War of 1812. This is a perfect place to immerse yourself in Connecticut River history.

If you brought lunch, it's also a great place to picnic. If not, there are plenty of dining options in the village, including a good deli.

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The Connecticut River watershed drains a large part of New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts and Connecticut, and many of the region's first settlements were created on its banks. Some of the oldest homes and farms in the valley are along or near the river.

It can be said without much hyperbole that two centuries ago New England was one big farm. Though the farms are far fewer now, there still are plenty of them.

About 200 miles to the north, the 20-mile section of the valley from Wells River, Vt., on the west shore and Woodsville, N.H., on the east, extending south to Fairlee, Vt., on the west and Orford, N.H., on the east remains heavily agricultural and, even with some hills, is a mostly flat and scenic ride.

Congregational churches? Check. Old farmhouses, cows and country stores? Count them.

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A block from the river in Orford is The Ridge, where seven stately and architecturally significant homes built between 1773 and 1839 are set back from the main road on a sloping hillside. With their expansive front lawns, they lord over it. Within sight is a much-photographed iron bridge spanning the Connecticut.

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About 80 miles farther up, the northernmost Connecticut Valley is sparsely settled. You won't see a row of historic homes presiding over the river here. In the north country, there is nothing wrong with a vegetable garden on the front lawn if that is the sunniest spot on the property.

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Again, cyclists can easily fashion a loop of varying lengths in the section of river extending from Bloomfield, Vt., north to Colebrook, N.H. This is pleasant cycling in forested country, with brooks pouring in from either side..

Once there were many covered bridges on the Connecticut, but time and storms took their toll. Three covered bridges remain, including one on this stretch of the river, linking Lemington, Vt., and Columbia, N.H. Get the camera.

There are frequent views of the river along the way, and gravel areas where you can take in the scenery and tarry over lunch.

Cyclists who don't mind some big hills can continue about 20 miles north into Pittsburg, N.H., near the Canadian border, where the river starts. This is the wildest country in the entire valley. Ride along U.S. Highway 3 later in the day, and keep an eye on the wet areas on either side of the road. If you want to see a moose, guaranteed, this is the place.

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Pick a route: With a few maps, cyclists can fashion many trips in the Connecticut Valley. These three routes offer outstanding scenery. Travel times vary greatly depending on number of stops and travel speed. (All these loops can be shortened.)

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Connecticut: Old Saybrook and Essex loop (about 21 miles) — Head south on Main Street, Route 154, in Old Saybrook, left on North Cove Road, which reconnects with Connecticut Route 154. On 154, cross South Cove and continue until reaching Old Boston Post Road, take a right, continuing back to Route 154 at Main Street. Continue north on Route 154 to Essex and follow signs to the village, returning to Main Street, Old Saybrook, via same route.

New Hampshire to Vermont: Connecticut River Farm Country loop (about 32 miles) — From Orford, N.H., north on Route 10 to Woodsville, N.H., west short distance on Route 302 to Wells River, Vt., south on Route 5 to Fairlee, Vt., crossing river at bridge to starting point.

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Vermont to New Hampshire: North Country loop (about 24 miles) — From Bloomfield, Vt., travel north on Route 102 through Lemington to bridge at Colebrook, N.H., continuing east to Route 3, then travel south on Route 3 to North Stratford, N.H., crossing bridge to Bloomfield starting point.